Conflow

Hi Ronnie, I see that Ken beat me to the 'Post'.... The Sony PCM-D50 is also available in B&H Photo Video. New York. Price: $499 or in your money £256 U.K. and they Ship overseas. I know that because I buy my equipment from them. Thats a good price for a "Pro-Recorder" Brian.Conflow.

Tom, I now appreciate your problem.There is a lot of 'rotating Machinery' in that System for such a quite room as you describe, and there are many reflective surfaces. * Resonating Metal Cabinet * Main Power Supply Fan. * Processor Fan. * Graphics Card Fan. * HD-Disc (A) * HD-Disc ( And its probably standing on a Hard-Surface ~ Here is a 'technique' which will quiten down the beast considerably. (A) Get yourself a sheet of 'Rubberised Kopak' about an 1" larger all round that the base of the PC and about +1" thick ~now stand the PC on that. (Builders Merchants have it) ( Also you need 2 Sheets of (self-adhesive) 'Lead Lined Bitumen Sheet' somewhat the same size as the sides of the PC, cut to size and stick-on. NEW PC:- Some of the quitest PC's on the market are the (Hi-End) H.P Hewlett Packards - Liquid Cooled with Thermostatic Main Fan. 'Alloy Heat Exchanger Blocks' are clip-fitted to the main Processor Block and the Graphics Processor. Cooling liquid is circulated into these and returned to a Radiator which is cooled with the Thermostatic Fan,which in turn has a rubber suspension which isolates sound from the Cabinet. Hope this helps you... Brian.Conflow.

Hi Peter, Thanks for the personal reply and I do appreciate that you want to keep things simple so to suit your own applications and objectives, of course many are as like minded as yourself. However being a Forum Member I do try to make an effort to help others avoid the 'pitfalls' in this new branch of AV.Productions, namely: 'Live Recordings' ~ and what better way to help, but to put my experience of (manufacturing) Sound Systems to use here on the Forum so others can benefit. Forum Members have become aware that good 'Sound Recorders' actually cost less than a 'Point & Shoot' Digital Camera ~ so given time, I can see this new activity opening up in so many ways, all of which will enhance the WnSoft AV.Program. For those who wish to see what we are discussing, here below is one 'System Example' Regards, Brian.Conflow

Ronnie, Thats an excellent suggestion ~ its exactly what Sound Engineers do, and its the right way to start any 'Live Recording' session ~ I hope others heed your advice. Brian.

Tom, What type of 'Noise' are you getting ? and may I ask, where is your PC ? ~ what are the Room Surfaces.? What is the Make & Model of your PC ? So 4 Questions for you Please understand, one has to evaluate your experiences before offering any worthwhile suggestions... Brian.Conflow

Hi Peter, Yes 'Water Recordings' are extremely difficult to achieve, and as you mention 'water white-noise' yes you are correct. Horizontal 'Moving-Water' in open space with small wavelets, and breaking wavelets, and random trickles, compress and decompress the air mass above them. These 'compressions' move outwards as sub-acoustic waves (below 20.Hz) and when there are hundreds of them they compound together and can be heard as a form of 'Shussssssh Noise' extending way into the hi-frequencies. There is no simple cure for this noise. I have previously Posted the "Twin-Mic Recording Technique" with the 'Subtractive-Mixer' thats the only answer which we Engineers have, unfortunately Barry didn't want to know about this, so what can I say ? Ken, All Open-Space Recordings are 'Flat' because there are no acoustic reflections. In fact extreme absorbsion is the way Nature intended it ~ otherwise we would all go 'bonkers' with the accumulative Noise Pollution. The only exception's being Valleys, Canyons, Escarpments and Uncarpeted Rooms which give small discrete reverberations and longer Echo's ~ so you get some brilliance with these. Waterfalls Peter, you could not have chosen a more difficult subject (except Aircraft & Trains) ~ Here is a little help. 'Falling Water' hits the pool below at some considerable Velocity and Horsepower. It comprises a number of sounds: Lo-frequency compressive concussion sounds and reflections, and Hi-frequency 'Shuuuush' from the plume of falling water and the usual wall reflections. The 'Sounds' are horizontally radiated and reflected. To record properly you need Stereo-Mics: One mounted above the other with a 2~3"inch gap between them (not side-by-side) and direct the Mics towards 'off-centre' of the falling plume, not at the base of it. Both Mics should be wrapped in Rubber-Foam (not plastic). You will need a piece of 'Hardboard 2.ft/sq or some form of 'Baffle' placed on the near side to the Waterfall. Yes its tricky, but you will get a good result. (What we are doing here is getting the 'vertical-signature' of the Waterfall not its horizontal polar pattern). Peter may I commend your efforts, you are one of the few really trying out 'Live-Recording, as for me ~well I've been at it for over 30 years and have the scars to prove it. Very best of Luck... Brian.Conflow

Den, I was replying to an enquiry from JudyKay and TomUK ~ "How do they get sound into their PCs ?" Their enquiry had nothing what so ever to do with 'Live Recording' and I think you are being a little 'unfair' in down-thumbing the 'Griffin Audio-to-USB Converter' simply based on your own experience. This product has a good reputation and comes from an excellent Manufacturer and has excellent Technical Support and also boasts an excellent Forum ~ I assume you contacted them. * The product is designed for XP-Sp2 and Apple Macs...and did you download the Software for it ? * The excessive 'Noise' you experienced is normally due to an unsuitable Mic or no PC.Driver. (The product does not convert the Mic-Signal to a PC.Line-Input Signal as you understand it) How it Works The Mic-Signal is amplified to the Standard 0.db Level as is the Line-Input (0.db=.775 Vrms). This Standard signal is applied to an A/D Converter where its digitised to a 24.bit Output which in turn is applied to a USB Driver/Output Chip and then into any USB Port on your PC. N.B. You do require its PC.Driver (like all USB devices) and thats offered 'freely' to every Purchaser. So only your 'Input-Sound' can be faulty ~ because the rest is Digital and essentially Noiseless. I personally regret that you had this bad experience but I feel had you pursued the issue with Griffin then the outcome would have been totally different, and very much to your satisfaction. Brian.Conflow. P.S. Microsoft do not supply (generic) Sound-Drivers for external USB.Sound Devices.

TOMUK Tom, The Griffin Model you are looking at on EBay is the 'older' version of the Griffin Module which I had posted ~ Here below again is the "Attachment" I posted and a 'Link' to a U.K.Supplier and there are many of these. Concerning "import" to Audacity etc; ~ well the Module creates a Music File of your PC and that File is imported by you to Audion or Audacity . All Technical details of this Product are on the WebLink and its made for Windows.XP and Mac's. Please read all the Product Data very carefully as there are major differences to the 'Older' Model. Brian.Conflow. "Link": http://www.etcetera.co.uk/products/GRI001.shtml

Judy, You said..."How do you get from analog to digital? From your cassette to your computer? My best attempts introduce hummmmmmzzzzzz"...jk...There are 2 questions here.(BK). Yes Judy you are correct,most people who do this experience "Hum" for many reason's and the most likely causes are:- 1) Mains induced 'hum' on an unscreened connector cable between the Recorder and PC. 2) If its a 'Mains Powered Recorder' try reversing the Mains Plug if its a 2.Pin Plug. 3) Sound signal level from the Recorder is way too low for the PC Line Input socket. 4) There is no common "Earth" ~ particularily with a 2.Pin mains Plug. Connect a wire from the PC Metal Cabinet to the Recorder Chassis or its enclosure if its Metal. 5) Make absolutely sure that the PC is actually "earthed" via its Mains Plug. How do you get from analog to digital ? Well I have a Sound-Mixer Desk and when I finish primary Tape Editing I send the corrected Recording to my PC. On that PC I have a good 'Software Recorder' which allows me to record the edited Tape into any 'sound-format' I choose, be it WAV~MP3~WMA etc. Also the sound editing program: Audacity...will do the same job without the bells & whistles and its Free Software. Alternative to above: You could also use an "iMAC Audio Input Adapter" ~Suitable for Macs and Windows PCs'. This 'Griffin Audio Module' simply plugs into any USB Port and you connect your Audio Source to it and it does the rest. Costs in U.K £30. See "Attachments" Brian.Conflow.

Barry, I have tried to help you in your quest for a 'Flexible Adaptable Recorder' which would be as universal in usage as your Main Camera, and then you throw in a caveat,quote:- .."If I can't buy the gadget, keep it in my bag and use it when I need to, then I will give up any thought of live sound recording"...Thats fair comment.. But correct me if I am wrong, my assumption is:- That you wish to take the Recorder from your Bag, hit the 'record-button' and it does it all by itself ? to your requirements? I have one question:- 'Do you expect your Camera to perform likewise'....I think not ! So whether one likes it or not, one has to become familiar with the equipment being used and that includes one's Camera and setting it up with Lenses etc,etc; never mind taking the Photograph...Why should a Sound Recorder be any different ? Anyway, I hope what I posted was of some help and assistance to those who may be thinking of 'Live Sound Recording' ~ it's just as fascinating as using a Camera. Brian.Conflow.

Peter, I agree fully with what you are saying and with the sentiment "when appropriate to the content and theme" ~ and of course that ranges right across the board from the Novice to the Professional...we each one of us, are always learning. Concerning your Zoom-H4 ~ a great Recorder, well up to the job, and with a few "add-ons" it can tackle most everything. As I said in my previous Post I personally use 'Tape' for other professional technical reasons which I can't do with a Digital Recorder ~ wish I could. Brian.Conflow.

Barry, I have seen some of your Productions and very nice they are ~ and of course I realise that you have "been there before" but other's are reading our Post's and they also might like to see some additional input into this subject from both of us. Speaking personally and thats all I can do at this point: I personally use an 'Analogue Stereo Recorder' in preference to a 'Digital Recorder' ~ having said that, once again, I must make the point that Sound Recording is Subjective. For general 'On-the-Fly' Recordings, there is very little available which will beat a nice Recorder such as the Zoom-H4 not the least because its very adaptable and will accept external Mics and those Mics will tell their own story. The 'Technology' used in 'Digital Recorders' very rarely uses WAV Format because memory size is the limiting factor. It is also quite easy to accidently over-record with these,viz:- Loud shot-noises where 'analog-recording' is quite forgiving. But like everything else, once you watch those 'nuances' there is nothing wrong with machines such as the Zoom-H4 ~ in fact it's excellent for what it is. I use Analog Recorders because its 'Raw-Sound' I am recording. Cassette's will run for an Hour, same memory size as a CD-Disc. I have absolute control over the 'Sound Editing' ~ in fact I can do anything I like with it ~ try that with Mini-Disc or MP3 etc; also the power demands are easily met with Rechargable AA Batteries. You can also 'edit-on-site' and there are many more peripherals available for Cassette Recorders. Some people make a great play about 'Tape-Hiss' ~ its a thing of the past because 'Audacity' will remove it and Professional Engineers use 'Dolby' to remove it ~ in one single pass, without effecting the sound-bandwidth. But at the end of the day, its down to Mic selection and the 'Electronic Deployment' of these with a 'Special Mixer' which will give you what you want. When I am recording a 'Single-Source Sound' its done with Stereo-Mics but rendered to Mono in a Special Mixer (more later) The Mics are a (shockproof) Super-Cardoid and a matching Semi-Directional Mic. The Super-Cardoid can be fitted within a short lenght of 4" PVC Tube which is covered with Rubber Foam (not Plastic). The Directional-Mic can be used as is, or with a Parabolic Reflector. The Mixer is a 'Subtractive Mixer' where the pick-up from the Directional Mic is subtracted from the Super-Cardoid Mic. Care is needed NOT to subtract all the ambient noise otherwise what was a 'Live Recording' becomes a sterile 'Studio Recording'. Its a general rule with 'Live Single-Source Recording' never to record in Stereo, this to avoid 'ping-pong' effect in Replay as a result of any single-source movements. Thats my take on the subject gained from bitter experience over many years recording Machines and artifacts of all types for Surveys and Engineering Reports where the 'sound-sources' were on Land, Rivers, and the Sea ~ the latter being the most difficult. But it is enjoyable when you have the results... Brian.Conflow.

Hi Nobeef.... If he/she is using 'Nero Burning Software' ~ this gets very 'Ikey' about Filename lenghts, and is always a problem point. Of course for 'Fast Burning' he/she should do as you suggested and I agree it is the easiest for Novice users ~ but I would encourage him/her to drop long Filenames as they eventually cause problems particularily if you want to 'Burn' multiple copies now or in the future. All the best, Brian.

The "ISO Standard" is an accepted international standard and in particular it refers to 'Filenames' and being specific:- It really need Filenames less than 8 Characters in lenght. During the 'Burning Process' a Window told you that many Filenames were greater than 8 Characters and did you wish to accept that ? ....you probably ignored this request or jumped over it, consequently you left out a 'software-instruction' as to how the Disc would be Managed. In this scenario the Burner-Software will 'skip' those Files because they are not to Standard and you didn't give any instructions otherwise to accept the lenghty Filenames. Filenames: Are those "Titles" you gave to Photographs and Sound Files and Folder Names. TIP:- If you have a Slideshow with 3,4,5 or more sections in it, try and name your Photos in each Section as:- Section(1) as: A-01 to A-99 and in Section(2) as: B-01 to B-99 and in Section(3) as C-01 to C-99 and so on. For music use Track-01 and Track-02 and Track-03 and so on. (DO NOT FORGET THE 'Zero' in front of single numbers) For Folder Names: Just keep these within 8 Characters. This is the simplist way of avoiding Burner problems....best of luck ! Brian.Conflow.

Peter & Barry, Peter: I completely agree with you, I did say to Barry "....let me first say that anything to do with 'Sound Recording' is very much a subjective business..." and I must say that I like your description of 'Sound-Wallpaper' ~ how true that is ! Barry: Very few people use Live Sounds in their Slideshows which is a terrible pity as 'live sounds' add a very real artistic input to Slideshow. You ask why its not used ? ~ Peter has part answered that question, and here is the fill in:- 1) Sound Wallpaper, yes nearly 98% of Sounds in any Slideshow are simply 'Wallpaper' and are artificial Studio abstractions of the real thing ~ even TV & Radio Sounds are Studio abstractions. 2) Live Sound Recording or reproduction is an 'Artform' which takes some considerable time to learn. As Peter will assure you, you simply don't go out, switch on your Recorder and make a good 'Take' nothing could be further from the truth. Good 'Sound Takes' need careful planning and a keen ear. 3) Sound Management plays an extremely important part in the process. Here is a simple example:- Go to 'live-location' ~ switch on Recorder for 1 minute ~ Now 'Replay' through Stereo-Headphones and acknowledge the 'ambient-background'. This goes into your Subject Recording as background. So now you have to choose Microphone dynamics and orientation in order to get that solo-Subject Sound. 4) Replay Location Acoustics: What you recorded perfectly will not replay perfectly in a Domestic setting because the acoustics are different that the Source acoustics. To get that perfect you need to add some 50~75 millesecs of Reverberation to mimic the Source.....Thats why we have Recording Studios. Dont worry, "Audacity" does this perfectly. 5) Climatic Conditions: Microphones must be suitable for 'outdoor-usage' and not be influenced by Fog~Mist~Rain~Cold~Heat, many are, particularily Condenser Microphones. 6) The 'Human-Ear' is a very strange beast ~ It has the selective-ability to filter out a whole range of sound artifacts such as: Countryside aurora noise ~ ambient rustlings ~ tyre noise ~ wind noise and the actual sound of our voices. When we speak,what we hear is not as others hear us. So again one need care when we make 'Live Recordings'. Peter has offered to send you some samples from his 'Zoom H-4' he is a generous man in doing that, but please be aware what he hears on his Sound System IS NOT what you are going to hear on yours. Speaking as a professional I would never dare send a 'Sample Track' unless it was processed to Studio Standards but I must commend Peter in his efforts to help you ~ Barry,it is subjective. Having said all that I wish more people would make an effort in coming to 'grips' with this important art form as it enriches any Slideshow and lifts it out of the 'Wallpaper' category and makes it truly dynamic. I hope this has been of some help to those thinking of trying out 'Live-Sounds'... Brian.Conflow.

Hi Barry, Well I've spent nearly 40 years in the 'Sound Equipment Business' both as a user, and a Manufacturer of equipment for Irish Railways and various 'Outdoor Event Organisers' and let me first say that anything to do with 'Sound Recording' is very much a subjective business ~similar too~ but not far removed from Photography,...choices,choices !! To get you up to speed a visit to:- www.zzounds.com is a must as its the 'Holy Grail' of Semi-Professional Recordists and the American Music Industry. Open their Web.Page and search down the RH.side for what you want. (Some "Attachments" below for info purposes) ~ They also 'Export' worldwide. Names like:- Zoom ~ Fostex ~ Tascam are the 'Recorders' you are looking for. Names like:- Shure ~ Soundlabs ~ AKG are the 'Microphones' you are looking for. I use Soundlabs because I've lost too many expensive Mics in the field ~ people love messing with Mics. Model: G147 Shockproof Super-Cardoid (directional) for outdoor usage and Model: G150 for general usage. For Mic selections see:- http://www.htfr.com/microphones/ Shure PG-48 (£80) and Shure PG-58 (£60) are the expensive alternatives to Soundlab. For your type of work you really need a small Multi-Track Recorder ~ examples below. Brian.Conflow. PS. I note that Peter is using the Zoom-H4 ~ its a very nice Mini-Digital.

Hi Lin, WOW !...Thats one heck of a Lo-Price, $234 for the GeForce.8800 Card. if its bought in USA. Converts to: £120 UK. and Euro 160 + carriage. Comparison if Purchased in Europe: Its on Sale in U.K for £ 475 (inc Vat) or in Euro 634 or U.K Dollar Equivalent $ 926. I wonder would the 'American E-Commerce Store' ship to Europe ~ most won't due to EU.Vat Restrictions ? As its under £200 UK value one could send the $$$$ to a pal in the USA and get it posted back home... Brian.Conflow.

Al and Peter, Perhaps the "Link" below may provide an answer to this problem:- Videotronic 'Cardbus Adaptor' Laptop Multi-Display Adaptor. http://www.villagetronic.com/vtbook/index.html Brian.Conflow

Make your Laptop Multiple Display Once again I see an enquiry from a Forum Member concerning the ability of his Laptop to drive 'Multiple Displays. I posted the attached reply once before ~ so here again is an updated version of that reply featuring a new device which will do the job. Its a 'Cardbus Plug-In Module' which simply plugs into any Cardbus Port on your Laptop. The data is too expansive to describe here but be assured that the Website is well worth a visit just to see the technical advances which have taken place over the past 2 years..... Take time to look at the automatic 'Flash Presentation' on their Home page. Brian.Conflow. Villagetronics "Link":- http://www.villagetronic.com/vtbook/index.html

Mark, Many thanks for the clarification ~ its just that so many PTE Users fall for the Shop "Sales Pitch" ~ whereafter the bitter realisation becomes evident that their New Laptop is simply not up to the job ~(not before they blame PTE firstly). It's with that in mind that I'm trying to remind experienced Members to be vigilent and offer a little advice to those thinking of buying a Laptop suitable for PTE.5xx Brian.Conflow.

Mark, I think we need to clarify an issue brought up in a previous Post,viz- Title:- PTE.5xx and Laptops The majority of Lo-Cost Laptops use an 'Intergrated Motherboard' where the Video-Chipsets are soldered in and one can't fit an advanced Video Card such as Mark has described, never mind the NVidia Pure Video System. In effect Marks' Post is directed at those who have a 'Hi-End Portable' with a good Graphics Card where 'NVidia Pure Video' might work well. However,so we don't offer false expectations to those who have already purchased a (lo-cost) 'Off-the Shelf Laptop' with Intergrated Graphics please do not try this Program. Brian.Conflow.

Henri, It will run both the Pte.4.48 Application and the Exe provided you keep the Hard-Drive below 50~60% Filled capacity and have at least 128mB of clear Ram-Memory and provided the Pte.Exe is not excessive. I had no problems with Laptops running Win '98se nor 2000.Pro but with XP-Sp2 you need at least 512mB of Ram-Memory as XP consumes nearly half of that for its Operating System. (You might have to switch off your Anti-Virus as some interfer with the Pte.Exe) Brian.

Anthony-Henri-John, I said...."Over 90% of Laptops & Notebooks are unsuitable and will not run PTE.5xx".... Now compare the specifications of your Laptops to those available within the vast 'Retail Market' which is awash with 'Lo-Cost' portables using inferior Graphic Chipsets which are absolutely overwhelmed with the PTE.5xx Program and similar Programs.. These 'Lo-Cost Portables' are not designed to run any advanced programs such as PTE.5XX ~ Smart Draw ~ Autocad and such like, they even have problems with Excel. In my experience it is unfair to offer 'false hope' to those who have bought these 'Lo-Cost Portables' and then expect them to run advanced Graphics !!...and its also wishfull thinking to allude to comparisons with Hi-End Portables ~ its not possible because Lo-End Portables are made with 'Intergrated Motherboards' (one-piece) whereas Hi-End Portables generally use "plugable" (exchangable) Modules. The Twain will never meet ~ and its also unfair to the WnSoft Team and the PC owner in trying to make a 'Pig out of a Sows Ear' ~ it can't be done. Now Guys, are you trying to tell me that your excelent Laptops fall into the above 'Lo-Cost' categories...I think not...and thats the point in trying to establish minimum specifications for Laptop/Portables so on this Forum we can agree a:- "Criteria for Laptops" Brian.Conflow.

PTE.5xxx -and- Laptops Many Readers have seen the various Posts and increased interest in trying to run PTE.5xx on Laptops and I think its time for a 'review' to establish some simple criteria in an effort to assist future enquiries. The plain facts are as follows:- The Desktop 1) PTE.5xx is a 'Hi-end' superb Graphics Slideshow Program which makes heavy demands on any PC. 2) The vast majority of (modern) PC's will run PTE.5xx provided the 'Graphics Card' meets specifications. 3) Many (modern) PC do not have installed Graphics Card ~ but soldered in ~ Lo-cost Graphic Chipsets. 4) Chipsets' will not perform like a good Graphics Card, consequently many are not suitable to run PTE.5xx. 5) You can purchase and 'install' a good Graphics Card ~provided~ the Desktop Microprocessor can run it. 6) Check on the Forum or with your PC Manufacturer to see if your PC is suitable to run PTE.5xx. The Laptops & Notebooks a) Over 90% of Laptops & Notebooks are unsuitable and will not run PTE.5xx with all its attributes functional. Provided the Laptop/Notebook has sufficient Memory (+256mB) and a decent Processor it will run PTE.4.48. c) Most Laptops/Notebooks will not accept an Advanced Graphics Card ~ No space and No Power available. d) If the Laptop can accept a 'PCI Express 16' Graphic Plug-in Module' ~ I'm afraid they are very hard to find. e) Better by far to 'Trade-In' or purchase a Hi-End Laptop with a known Graphics-System such as "NVidia Gxx". f) If in doubt consult the Forum,giving:- Laptop Make/Manufacturer and Model No.or refer to Manufacturer. Remember If you are going to distribute your PTE.5xx Slideshow the 'Host-PC' must be capable of running it - check first. Brian.Conflow