davegee

Animation: It might be possible to add your first object, set it up as required re the PZR settings and "Setting Up" and then copy and paste it within the same slide. Change the Image/Object in O&A > Properties > Picture. The new object will then have the same settings as the first. Change the start/ middle/ end positions and PZR attributes. It's as broad as it's long. DG

Copying Slides: Checked Peter's description and it is word perfect. Just tried it on my XP Desktop Computer and works a treat. Open donor show. Copy slide Go to File / Open / Open recipient show Paste in desired position. DG

If the Canon SX80 is a 1400x1050 Projector then your show needs to be 1400x1050 MINIMUM resolution using 1400x1050 MINIMUM resolution Images. Is the computer you are using also set to 1400x1050? DG

The ACTION is not a problem - it is easy to make an action which does nothing and which can be applied during batch processing. The problem is that in PS it would only process TIFF, JPEG etc and I doubt that it handles RAW files - not sure? NX2 will batch rename all of the above plus NEF RAW files without the need for applying an action or settings file. Neither will rename ALL files - only specific files. I've learned something. DG

Photoshop: File > Automate > Batch Nikon NX2: Batch > Run > Rename DG

Don't editing programmes such as Photoshop, Nikon NX2 etc already offer that facility? DG

Hi Mark, I downloaded both shows and watched on my 16:10 computer monitor and my TV. Firstly the 16:10 large show on my Computer monitor. The images are superb and fill the screen. I liked the show and will watch again. I noticed that I could use the right arrow to move the images along but the music and commentary then went out of sync. I tried to pause the show for comparisons but failed. Something to think about? Now the 16:9 show. It seems obvious to me that you have compressed the images top to bottom to fit the 16:10 images to the 16:9 format. Short fat people. I compared the 16:9 show on my laptop monitor and the 16:10 show on my desktop monitor and, on the same slides I could see the same information top and bottom and on both sides. Please correct me if wrong! I see little point in that and went for the escape button. On the TV, even with the AR "problem", I prefered the 16:9 version because it filled the screen whereas the 16:10 had black lines on each side. On the subject of whether the increase of file size due to the sizes of the images was worth it, I found it difficult to judge because it was impossible to compare like with like either on the computer monitors or on the TV. The best option out of the two that you offered was the 16:10 shown on my 16:10 computer monitor but it is impossible to say if that version would be any better than a similar show made with 1920x1200 images rather than your 3840x2400 images. I must try to get there someday! DG

Suggestions for a way forward (examining the possibilities of corrupt images or music): Open your PTE and save as "TRIAL 1" Remove the music files(s) from Trial1 and Save Try to make an ISO from the Trial 1.PTE If successful then the possibility is that the music is unsuitable or corrupt. If unsuccessful: Open Trial1.PTE and Save As "TRIAL 2" Remove the first 50% of slides from Trial 2 and Save. Try to make an ISO from the Trial 2.PTE If successful then the possibility is that you have a corrupt image in the first 50% of the images. If unsuccessful: Open Trial 1.PTE and Save As "TRIAL 3.PTE" Remove the las 50% of slides from Trial 3 and Save. Try to make an ISO from the Trial 3.PTE If successful then the possibility is that you have a corrupt image in the last 50% of the images. If unsuccessful: You might have corrupt slides in both the first AND last 50% of slides OR it is something else completely............. DG

Barry's first post reminded me that I had never tried creating a DVD via the "Create DVD Folders" option. I tried this and (without actually burning a DVD) it looks to be a viable alternative to the "Create ISO" file for those without suitable DVD Burning software. Burning the DVD Folders as DATA should produce the same result? Anyone use this method? Barry's second post reminded me that I had forgotten to change the location of my TEMP folder in PTE to an external drive(after a re-installation). The less I have writing to my C drive the better I like it!! It's usually the first thing I do when installing or re-installing software. Thanks Barry, DG

If Barry's solution works then it re-inforces my assertion that REGULAR maintenance is the answer to a lot of computer problems. Once a week use XP's Disc Cleanup or the Vista/W7 equivalent SHOULD clear out any redundant .TMP files. DG

My assumption is that you are using Video Builder to create your project and that you are using the "DVD Video Disc" option? The page after the TITLE page contains the option to "Create ISO Image" (and WHERE to save it). Tick that one and untick all others. Clicking on START will start the process. You will then get a message at the end which will either say that you are successful or unsuccessful. If successful then PTE is working OK and you need to look elsewhere. If unsuccessful then report back? DG

Download the installer to a memory key on old laptop and install from the memory key on new laptop. Use the registration key which you put in a safe place when it was sent to you (via the same method)? DG

If, instead of trying to make a DVD, you make the ISO file first, you might find that the problem is NOT with PTE? It could be your DVD burner or other system problem. DG

If you REALLY want to optimise your file sizes you can make a note of the highest value that the zoom goes to for a particular image in O&A > Animations. Multiply the resolution of your show by that percentage and that's the resolution that you need for that particular Image. Example: Resolution of show - Project Options > Screen > Size of Slide = 1920x1080 Deepest Zoom for Image - O&A > Animation > Zoom = 140% Width of Image required = 1920x1.4 = 2688 Resolution required for Optimum File Size = 2688x1512 That's if you REALLY want to be precise, but that way at least one end of your zoom is going to be a true pixel for pixel representation of your image on a 1920x1080 screen. DG

The more I think about it Stu, my preference would be for a multiple choice arrangement so that ticking SEPERATE would untick GLUE. It's not a big deal, but I've never felt as comfortable with it as others seem to be. DG

Not to labour an old discussion but it would work far better for me if "GLUE HERE" were to say "SEPERATED" and "SEPERATE HERE" were to say "GLUED". But that's just my opinion - no need to discuss further. DG

If you have more than two keyframes in the zoom you need to go into O&A > Animation > Click on Zoom Linear (or Smooth etc) and then Setting Up. Click on "Seperate Here" to change to "Glue Here". That should sort it. DG

Point taken Barry, but I was talking about making shows to suit MY setup or, in the case of a competition, to suit the competition's "rules" and the projector they are going to be shown on. When your shows are released to the general public you obviously have no control over the monitor on which they are displayed. I wonder if the losses which are going to take place are greater when a show is made with 4000x3000 images than when made with carefully prepared 1920x1080 (when displayed on Joe Blogg's 1280x1024)? I don't have an answer - pure speculation. DG P.S. Off topic - did the Cyclone effects reach your neck of the woods?

Welcome back Ken! DG

It seems to make little sense to make slide shows and restrict them to "computer monitors". Output for TVs and HD projectors need to be seriously considered. Each producer has to decide where the fruit of his labours is going to be more at home. The MP4 seems to be gaining in popularity and its ease of playing on a TV monitor or HD Projector with little or no losses is more appropriate for the near future (HDMI or USB). After much consideration I have adopted the 16:9 "frame" for all shows. Other aspect ratio productions are made at 1080 high and superimposed within the 16:9 "frame". By adopting this workflow I avoided having the shows being stretched to fit the TV monitor by its Media Player. If anyone has any evidence that the current 16:9 - 1920x1080 - format for TV is about to change please let me/us know? DG P.S. on Barry's point about monitor sizes etc. Regardless of the size of the monitor in inches and the resolution of the images used to make a show "something" is reducing it to 1920x1080 or 1920x1200 be it PTE or your graphics card or the TVs Media Player. I'm more inclined to want to be in charge of any downsizing and see the results "pixel for pixel" the way I produced them. Just my opinion.

Going back to the original discussion: I use a mixture of High Pass Sharpening and Unsharp Mask the proportions of which and the settings for each can vary from image to image. (I have never been a fan of Batch Sharpening images - 150 identical portraits of the same person under the same lighting would possibly be an exception to this rule). However, my question to Igor is: Will we be able to SELECTIVELY sharpen images? (This was touched on by Lin). e.g. sharpening a sky or foliage is sometimes counter-productive when the image is going to be subjected to PZR so a method of selecting which parts of an image are sharpened and which are not would seem to be important. DG

The five options in Aginum's post are, in Engilsh: Sharpen Sharpen Edges Sharpen More Smart Sharpen Unsharp Mask Since they are listed in alphabetical order on both the English and French versions does the position in the list remain the same top to bottom? "Plus Net" seems to translate as "No Longer Sharp" and therefore correct. DG

Hi Tom, I think that you mistook my intent? I DON'T have the problem - never have. I just wanted to know how you got around it for future reference. BTW are you talking about XP, Vista, W7 or other? I'm on WXP Media Centre Edition on my Desktop and NOTHING is where you would expect it to be in that!! (But it's a GREAT OS). My Laptop is Vista and HDMI was "plug and play" for vision and sound. I have never have to reset either way - it just recognises that the HDMI lead is in and goes to work. When I unplug the HDMI it reverts back to normal for both resolution and sound. It's a 1280x800 screen on the laptop and the output automatically adjusts to 1920x1080 when it sees the HDMI lead and TV. The TV becomes Monitor 1 and the Laptop becomes Monitor 2. Thanks, DG PS - Does your Laptop have a built-in Graphics Card or Shared Graphics? My 5 year old Sony Laptop has an nVidia Card (not shared) and that's possibly where the difference lies?

Copy and Paste the SLIDE and change the image in the Pasted Slide (in Properties / Picture). DG

Tom, Please post the solution? I never had this problem - my HDMI connection worked from day one (maybe it was because I use a SONY laptop?). I would be interested in the solution for archiving purposes. DG