Al, Yes, I rode the Dempster by bicycle. I flew into Dawson City airport, on the DC-3 shown in first photo and flew out of Inuvik (on a 737). This is why I thought it was fun to see your images of the similar places. It looks like you did some hiking I hadn't, and had the fall temperatures/colours. I had one day of rain and mud. On that day, I was traveling between Richardson range and Fort McPherson. On that day, I got a ride between km 58 and Fort McPherson due to the mud. Otherwise I bicycled in five and a half days; three to Eagle Plains and two and a half from there. I can sympathize with the unhappy cyclists you met as the mud sticks to everything including fenders and stops up wheels. On my rainy day I resisted for as long as I could but eventually took a ride from a pickup truck. Did you get eaten alive by mosquitos or was it cold enough to frost them out? I had mosquitos but generally could travel faster them them. I think it would be tougher in a van/camper when they get into vents and just buzz around. At Tuk I was told there were once counted 76 species... --mev, Mike Vermeulen