Converting to B&W

[bjc]

I was wondering what the general consensus was, amongst forum members, with regards to the conversion of images to B&W. What method do you use ? Does anyone have any interesting ‘pre-sets’ that offer specific results ~ such as replicating Tri-x / FP4 / HP5 etc. ?

Currently, my personal findings are that conversion to ‘Greyscale’ generally works better that ‘Desaturate’ ~ although neither give particularly good results.

‘Channel Mixer’ (monochrome ticked) offers much more control over the final look, although I have not yet found RGB-slider-settings that ‘work’ (for me) consistently across a wide range of image types.

My preferred method (at this moment in time) is to use ‘Gradient Map’, running from Black to White, with a dark-grey (#575757) colour-stop at position 29, and a light-grey (c1c1c1) colour-stop at position 69. This seems to work acceptably well with most image types, offering subtle control over the position of the tones in the image by adjusting the location of the two grey colour-stops.

I am certain however that many more options exist ~ and probably some excellent ‘pre-sets’ that offer predictable results. I would very much appreciate your recommendations if you know of a good technique.

Regards,

bjc

[davegee]

1. Make a Hue/Sat Layer above your Background Image. OK this without adjustment.

2. Make a second Hue/Sat Layer above the first and drag the Sat slider to the left to desaturate your image. OK this.

3. Change the Blend Mode of the first Hue/Sat Layer to Color and alter the Hue slider to produce a variety of B&W Variations.

4. Adding Levels and Curves to the stack provides further variations and adjustments.

All of the above can be incorporated into a one click action - varying the Hue of layer two as a final adjustment.

DaveG.

[Ken Cox]

bj

see Sam "cici" Huel's entry

http://www.picturestoexe.com/forums/index....st=entry24641

he does kind of bw sabatier effect on his main page

http://www.samwhuel.com/

and then bug him how he does his page

samwhuel@hotmail.com

ken

[bjc]

DaveG ~ thank you for that speedy input ~ and what an interesting option it is too ~ I’d not tried that one before ~ it’s well worth adding to the armoury of options isn’t it ~ thanks again !!

Ken ~ Sam Huel’s B&W ‘Sabatier’ effect works well ~ I suspect a form of Lighting Effect on an Alpha Channel, or something along similar lines (I’m probably wrong !?) ~ I would be interested to hear how it was done (nudge-nudge-wink-wink), hopefully he’ll let us all know.

bjc

[Ken Cox]

that is why i included his email

sam is one of the original members so i see no reason why he shouldn't --

if you do a search on the forum for

new show, My walk: dream and reality

Posted: Sep 26 2005, 06:14 PM

or try to find on his site

http://www.samwhuel.com/index.html

mapromenade.zip

the show is an example of his fine work

ken

[Dusty]

A quick and easy way that is better than desaturate is to convert the mode to LAB, delete all channels except the lightness channel, then convert back to RGB (Lab-Grayscale-RGB). Add an adjustment layer (curves, contrast, levels, selective color, etc.).

The method Davegee posted is one I like to use, also.

My current favorite though, is splitting channels. Duplicate and flatten the document. In the channels pallette, click the arrow at the top right. Select "Split Channels." This will create 3 new canvases. Usually the blue channel is junk but could come in handy depending on the tonal range of your image. Take the green channel and drag it onto the red channel. Add a layer mask (located at bottom of layers pallette) and with a black brush, erase the areas that the green channel is not complimentary. you might try reducing the opacity of the top layer. Add adjustment layers for more contrast. Also try different blending modes. The "overlay" blending mode often works nicely. It's the same principle as channel mixing, but more hands on. Here's an example B&W conversion I did using this technique: http://www.daydreamsart.com/images/wed103.jpg

~Cindy

[Ken Cox]

Cindy

long time no hear:)

how 'bout a before and after link

ken

[jevans]

My preferred method (at this moment in time) is to use ‘Gradient Map’, running from Black to White, with a dark-grey (#575757) colour-stop at position 29, and a light-grey (c1c1c1) colour-stop at position 69. This seems to work acceptably well with most image types, offering subtle control over the position of the tones in the image by adjusting the location of the two grey colour-stops.

bjc

I am interested in this method. I have Photoshop CS and when I access the gradient Map command (Image - adjustments - gradient map , there are no control adjsutsments visible, just the option to vary the type of gradient applied. Where is the command you are using with adjustable controls ?

Jeff Evans

[bjc]

Ken ~ I will search out that slideshow and view it asap ~ cheers.

Cindy ~ the LAB method you mention is another interesting option ~ your ‘Split Channels’ idea is also very neat as it offers an extension of options over and above ‘Channel Mixer’ (via Masks etc.),,, wed103.jpg looks REALLY good – I shall give that one tomorrow.

Jeff ~ when the Gradient Map dialog box comes up on-screen, click on the Tonal Gradient Bar itself ~ this will bring up on-screen the Gradient Mixer (complete with a selection of pre-sets) ~ to add colour-stops to your existing B&W Gradient (?) click just below the bottom edge of the Gradient Bar itself – a new colour-stop will be added where you click,, change it’s colour (to dark/light grey) by clicking on the small colour swatch (color) at the bottom left – add further colour-stops in the same way (as many as you want) ~ adjust how these colour-stops effect your image by dragging them left-or-right along the Gradient Bar (they will even cross over themselves !?) ~ if you like what you see on-screen, click ‘New’ before clicking OK as this will save your newly created Gradient layout as a new pre-set (in the panel above) for future reuse. This technique also lends itself to some serious abstracts – try messing with various colour-stops, placed in different positions along the Gradient – but beware this can drive your eyeballs crazy (!?).

bjc

[alrobin]

A quick and easy way that is better than desaturate is to convert the mode to LAB, ...

The "Photoshop Guru", Russell Brown, also recommends the "LAB" method.

[Guest Techman1]

I use the LAB process that Cindy and Al referenced in their messages. This is the quickest method that I've found that works effectively. You can create an Action in Photoshop to do this quickly. The action can also create a Contrast adjustment layer that you can manually adjust based on each image's unique requirements. Sharpen to taste and you're done. This works great and super fast!

Good luck to all and Happy Holidays!

Fred

p.s. - I can't wait to zooooooom & pannnnnnnnn (PTE 5.0 is on my Christmas list )!!!!!

[Ronniebootwest]

For seven different ways of converting, have a look at the tutorial on my web site.

[alrobin]

- I can't wait to zooooooom & pannnnnnnnn (PTE 5.0 is on my Christmas list )!!!!!

Only 4 more days, and counting! But just so's we're not disappointed, let's not forget that Christmas comes later in Russia than here in the Americas!

But, Igor, we'll be happy even if 5.0 isn't available until Christmas 2006, so be sure to take time off and enjoy the Holidays yourself with your friends and family. And make sure you give Alexey a little time off too!

All the best of the Season to you and all your team!

[Guest Techman1]

Igor,

Al's right! I know I'm especially happy to be using PTE the way it is currently. You and your team have made so many improvements over the past year. I'm not trying to push you into releasing PTE 5.0 too early, I'm just ready to try it out with a current project that I'm working on.

As Al states, we are happy to wait (but, next Christmas? ).

I wish you and yours a

Happy Holiday Season!

Warmest Wishes,

Fred

[Dusty]

Hi Ken, I've actually been lurking - somewhat patiently - waiting to jump on the elusive version 5. I'm anxious to work on a new show for my website and would love to use at least the zoom effect for some of the transitions.

Here's a link to the before of that shot: http://www.daydreamsart.com/images/before1.jpg

and after: http://www.daydreamsart.com/images/after1.jpg

I hope the beautiful spirit of Christmas touches everyone this season.

Merry Christmas!

~Cindy

[Ken Cox]

Cindy

beautiful

thks

you do good stuff

ken

[Guest damor]

Jus tlike most others I have found the chanel mixer to be very useful and user friendly, a point I think very important. You dont need complexity by doing "this and that" when simplicty gives a good result.

With this tool, you can choose which chanel gives you the best "basic" conversion and allows you to fine tune the contrast easily. My advise is stay away from the "one Click" option--unless your happy with it.

Dave.

damor

[Jamai]

‘Channel Mixer’ (monochrome ticked) offers much more control over the final look, although I have not yet found RGB-slider-settings that ‘work’ (for me) consistently across a wide range of image types.

BJC:

I found the following settings in Channel Mixer (Adobe Photoshop) very usefull;

Red: + 60

Green + 72

Blue: - 42

constant 0

check Monochrome

Hope you like the setting

Regards en Best Wishes

Eric

[bjc]

Eric (Jamai),, thank you for your input ~ I have tested ‘+60 / +72 / -42’ on a range of image types, Architecture / Landscape / Portrait etc., and agree that it can be a useful starting point.

I also thank everyone else for their input on this topic.

To anyone interested ~~ I can highly recommend downloading the really useful ‘freebie’ Plug-in filter utility as linked below. It would take me forever to describe all that this Plug-in will do, suffice to say that (IMHO) it’s well worth the effort involved. Downloading the small main utility, and (if you wish) the many additional (adjustable) pre-sets on offer (also free), is very straightforward ~~ however, unzipping the relevant files and then relocating them to the necessary Plug-in folder for use in Photoshop (and/or other Imaging platforms) could be a challenge for some !?

“ Read the read me on the link before download. “

http://www.optikvervelabs.com/

Those brave enough to attempt this challenge will be rewarded with what must surely be just about the best ‘freebie’ set of end-user adjustable photo-filters available anywhere.

Regards, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year to all,

bjc