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Sukhothai was recognized by UNESCO as world cultural heritage.

Sukhothai was established in 1238 as the first Thai Kingdom in central Thailand, a kingdom that lasted for 120 years and eventually annexed to the later Ayutthaya Kingdom.

These slideshow has 69 pictures (800x600) taken on November 2002 by me. I used to be a travel guide to Thailand for many years but now I have no work for over two years. For those who are interested, here are the full details from my travel guide "North Thailand"

Sukhothai Kingdom was the first Thai kingdom in central Thailand, a kingdom that lasted for 120 years and eventually annexed to the later Ayutthaya Kingdom. The main attraction in the province is Sukhothai Historical Park, where the ruins of the ancient capital are, located some 12 km west of the new town, by road No. 12 (the road to Tak).

Sukhothai was the religious and spiritual center of the kingdom and many ruins are to be seen today in the ancient town, now an Historical Park, recognized by UNESCO as world cultural heritage. In 1977 the Thai government, with assistance from UNESCO, began a restoration project that culminated in the completion of the Sukhothai National Historical Park in 1993. The park is open to the public everyday from 08.30 to 16.30. The Tourist Information Service Center is near Wat Phra Phai Luang. Admission fee.

Sukhothai province has an area of 6,600 sq. km north of Bangkok. It is divided into 9 Amphoes : Muang, Ban Dan Lan Hoi, Kiri Mat, Kong Krailat, Sawankalok, Si Nakhon, Si Samrong, Si Satchanalai and Thung Saliam (Si Satchanalai has a separate chapter). Sukhothai town is located 427 km from the capital. The best recommended way to visit Sukhothai is to go first to Phitsanulok, see Phitsanulok and continue by bus for 60 km to Sukhothai town. There are no trains going directly to Sukhothai but there are daily buses from the Northern Bus Terminal in Bangkok. There is one daily flight from Bangkok to Sukhothai and several flights daily to Phitsanulok.

From Sukhothai town, minibuses leave to the old city from near the police station. The best way to visit the ruins is to hire a Song Teo by the hour, since ruins are widely scattered and difficult to explore on foot, unless your visit will be very concentrated. It is also possible to rent a bicycle from the stores just opposite the museum. Most of the ruins have English signboards with a short description.

The new town of Sukhothai, on the east bank of the Yom River, have a few attractions only (was rebuilt from 1968 after destroyed by big fire). Phra Mae Ya Shrine is a stone figure (one meter high) of an ancient queen, situated in front of the City Hall. Some say in was made by King Ramkhamhaeng in memory to his mother. Early morning you can see locals bringing offerings. Wat Rajathank, a new temple, has a small school inside, like many other temples in Thailand.

Loy Kratong and Candle Festival

The best celebration in the province is held annually on November at Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include Kratong floating, a fireworks display, Kratong competition, Nang Nopphamat contest (a beauty contest in Thai costumes), spectacular procession and performances amid the glamorous atmosphere of Sukhothai Historical Park. Notice: book in advance.

Before I describe the main attraction, The Sukhothai Historical Park, a few words about some other places you can visit. Sawankha Woranayok National Museum is 38 km from Sukhothai (in Amphoe Sa Wankhalok). The museum displays sculptures of different periods including ceramic wares of Sukhothai period. (Open daily except Mondays, Tuesdays, and national holidays 09.00 - 16.00).

The Ramkhamhaeng National Park (Kao Luang, Sukhothai), established in 1980, covers an area of 341 sq. km. Kao Luang is the highest peak in the park with 1200 meters height. In addition to hills, forests, waterfalls and cliffs, it has some ancient remains like a large reclining Buddha hidden on top of a mountain with difficult access. The park is located 32 km from the new town. Take road No. 101 from town going south for 20 km to Ban Kirimit and turn right to road No. 1319 for another 12 km. You can continue from Ban Kirimit south on road No. 101 and turn right to road No. 1332 for 16 km to Tham Mae Ya Cave.

The Sukhothai Historical Park

Keep in mind - the ruins of the abandoned old city of Sukhothai which you will see, re-found in the jungle in 1890 and restored by the Fine Arts Department and transformed to be Sukhothai Historical Park, not always reflect the original artistic features in their small details and much of the beauty of the original art was lost. While Ayutthaya was destroyed by the Burmese invaders, Sukhothai was not and many of the ruins are in good condition. Remember that only religious structures were built of stones and bricks while other buildings, including royal palaces, were built entirely of wood and were lost long ago.

The art and architecture of Sukhothai represents almost all Southeast Asia. You can see Khmer Prasats and Prangs, Sri Lanka bell shaped chedis (sometimes supported by elephants), Mon architecture from Pagan (Bagan in Burma) and other. It was all blend together to evolve into, or help create, the Sukhothai style, best represented by the original Sukhothai walking Buddha statues (left hand raised and right foot forward).

Ruins in old Sukhothai, cover over 70 sq. km, are divided to five zones: A, B, C, D, E. Each zone charges admission fee (!?). If you don't have too much time, start with Zone A and continue north to zone B. If you go by bus, check when the last one leaves to town.

Notice: Even ruins of temples and statues are sacred, no matter of the condition they are. Being seen offending sacred objects may rightfully result in arrest, deportation, or even beaten by angry locals. Dress properly. Never touch or climb on any statue.

Central - Zone A

The walls of The Old City

The city walls, surrounded by earthen ramparts, are located in the center of the historical park, in Tambon Muang Kao. The north and the south walls are each 2,000 meters long, the east and the west walls are each 1,600 meters long. The walls contain four main gates: Pratu San Luang on the north, Pratu Na Mok on the south, Pratu Kamphaeng Hak on the east, and Pratu Oar on the west. Mae Rampan canal is on the east outside the walls and Sao Ho canal is on the east and south. Road No. 12 cross the old town from east to west. Lak Muang, the City Pillar (foundation stone), is at the exact center of town, as it should be. South of it, across the road is Wat Phra Si Maha That. East to the temple was the Royal Palace. Further east is The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum and further east Wat Trapang Thong. Further east is Pratu Kamphaeng Hak Gate. Surprisingly, the "Entrance" and ticket booth, the coffee and other tourist facilities are across the Museum. Bicycles rental are near the gate. Bus stop is also outside this gate. Here passes road No. 12 from the new town.

Arriving, get yourself a good map of the ruins and, unless you have a ready prepared route or you hired a local guide, start walking. Below are details about most the major, and some less, ruins.

King Ramkhamhaeng Monument is a bronze statue of the king on his throne. A base relief on the throne records the king's life. You will see it west of the museum. The original throne is kept in the Grand Palace Museum in Bangkok. The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum (opened 1964) displays collection of art and craft objects unearthed in Sukhothai and provinces around like Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet. Exhibits include Sawankalok ceramics, Khmer statues, many Buddha statues of the Sukhothai style and other objects. At the entrance stands a very beautiful bronze walking Buddha and a model of the ancient city. The famous Ramkhamhaeng pillar stone (a replica while the original is kept at Bangkok National Museum), which has an ancient inscription, said to be written by King Ramkhamhaeng. Open daily 09.00 - 16.00 except on Mondays, Tuesdays and official holidays. Admission fee.

The Royal Palace and Wat Maha That lies on the center of the town surrounded by a moat. From the old Royal Palace only the foundations are left. Wat Maha That is the biggest and most important temple. It was built by Sukhothai's first king, Sri Indradit, renovated in 1345 by Sukhothai's fourth king, Lo Thai, and the last by The Fine Arts Department. The chedi, erected by King Lo Thai, houses two Buddha relics (a hair and neck bone) brought from Sri Lanka. It has a ruined large Wiharn, a small Wiharn (built in later period) and big Chedi. The Wiharn has two rows of columns and a restored seated Buddha, dates from the Ayutthaya Period.

The temple shows Khmer and Sri Lanka architectural influences. The large bronze Buddha, cast by King Lithai in 1362, which once sat in the main Wiharn, was moved by King Rama I to Wat Sutat in Bangkok and has been named Phra Si Sakaya Muni. Look for the beautiful stucco figures on the base of the chedi. East of Wat Maha That is Wat Trapang Thong. Surrounded by water, like an island in the middle of a lake. There is a Sri Lanka style chedi and a new Mondop that houses the Buddha's Footprint, created by King Lithai (14th century), honored each year during Loy Kratong Festival on November (it was moved here from Wat Pra Bat Yai). Southwest from here is Wat Si Sawai. The temple is surrounded by a laterite wall and a moat and is located in a beautiful scenery. King Jayavarman VII (1181 - 1220) from the Khmer Empire start to build this temple, to be a Hindu temple, in a clear Khmer style with three laterite brick Prangs and a laterite Wiharn. Other Wiharns were added later (converted to be a Buddhist temple) and the whole complex was not so well restored. North from this temple stands Wat Trapang Ngoen.

Also surrounded by water, here are remains of Wiharn, Ubosot and a chedi. The view is magnificent. northeast is Wat Sra Sri, one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai. Surrounded by the biggest lake, it has a Sri Lanka style big Chedi, a large Buddha image and a small black Buddha statue in the walking Sukhothai style. At the northeast corner of the lake is San Ta Pa Daeng (located on the left side of the road if you walk north from Lak Muang City Pillar). Also a laterite temple, mostly in ruined condition, built by the Khmer in the Khmer style. From here walk north along the road and on your right, just before Pratu San Luang Gate, you will see Wat Sorasak, built in 1412 (according to stone inscription) which has a Sri Lanka style chedi on a square base surrounded by elephant buttresses. This is small but very interesting chedi. From Pratu San Luang Gate you exit the walled town (Zone A) going north along Tanon Phra Ruang Kao street to Zone B.

North - Zone B

Coming from Zone A you will see the big Tourists Information Service Center (about 500 meters north of San Luang Gate) at the entrance to Wat Phra Phai Luang which is on your left. The center provides information and it has a model of the old city of Sukhothai with ruins of Wats and other buildings. It displays some replicas of various original images kept in the National Museums of Bangkok and The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum of Sukhothai. At the center there is also a small bookstore and a coffeehouse, a good place to rest. In Zone B there are three main attraction, Wat Pra Pai Luang, Wat Sri Chum and Pottery Kilns. Do not miss the first two, especially not Wat Sri Chum, my favorite.

Wat Pra Pai Luang is a 12th century Temple surrounded by a moat. Originally a Khmer Hindu temple (converted to be a Buddhist temple and second in religious importance to Wat Phra Si Maha That) with three Khmer towers, on a north to south axis, which only one (the northern) remained today, on which the stucco decorations still can be seen (this temple was nicely restored). From the Wiharn and the chedi not much was left, plenty of broken ruins and a few still not completely damaged images of walking and standing Buddha. Back to the road and turn left (north) to the Ruin of Old Pottery Kilns called Thuriang Kiln. Forty nine old Kilns and can be seen here. Some say King Ramkhamhaeng brought from Chinese potters China to teach the Thao pottery, and some say that the pottery was indigenous ceramic industry of Sukhothai. Each Kiln is divided to three parts, the fire area, baking oven, and flue. Here and in Si Satchanalai the famous Sawankalok ceramics was made.

From the Kilns you can go north to see Wat Sang Kawat but you can skip this one and go to see the unique Wat Sri Chum. The temple is located west of Wat Phra Phai Luang and if you skip the kilns, when in Wat Phra Phai Luang just follow the road west. Here you will see the most massive and impressive seated Buddha statue in Sukhothai, 15 meters high, one you for sure remember from hundreds you will see in your trip. The image is made of bricks cover with stucco, sits compressed in a square Mondop that was built to fit exactly the size of the statue. The image is 11.30 meters from knee to knee, and standing in front of the statue you reach his long fingers, lying on his knee. The Mondop is 32 meters square and 15 meters high, and the walls are 3 meters thick. There is a small door to a passageway in the left inner wall which leads up (The passageway is closed to the public). The image was constructed probably in the late 14th century after Sukhothai came under the rule of the Ayutthaya.

West - Zone C

To reach Zone C. take the road from Wat Trapang Ngoen going west (car or bicycle) or from Wat Sri Chum south to road No. 12 and turn right (west). Since most of the foreigners are satisfied with Zone A and Zone B only (and maybe they are doing the right thing) I will give short details of some of the temples and ruins in Zone C.

Wat Chedi Ngam, a temple situated on a small hill, is a good example of a vandalized holy site. You can see the big hole on the Chedi created by thieves who stop at nothing. Wat Tham Hip is on another hill near by. On another hill stands Wat Sapan Hin with a 12 meters high Buddha statue looking sadly at the ruins. It offers good views but it also will take your breath while climbing up the hill (The entrance gate to Zone C is near this temple). Wat Aranyik is located near Wat Sapan Hin. In the (some caves nearby). Wat Chang Rop has a Chedi with elephants statues supporting its base and remains of a Wiharn. Wat Phra Yun has a standing Buddha image inside the Wiharn. Other temples include Wat Mangkon, Wat Pa Ma Muang and Wat Tuk.

South - Zone D

The temples in Zone D can not be compared to those in Zone A and Zone B. But, if you still want to see them, Entrance to Zone D is located near Wat Chetuphon. This temple houses two big Buddha images, 10 meters each, one standing and one walking. Another good example of a vandalized holy site is Wat Chedi Si Hong with elephants statues supporting the base of the chedi (to the east of Wat Chetuphon). Other temples are Wat Khung Wai, Wat Hin Tang, surrounded by laterite wall, Wat Sanka Wat, Wat Asokaram (Wat Salatdai), Wat Si Phichit Kirati Kanlayaram, surrounded by moats, Wat Wiharn Thong (Wat Thaksinaram), Wat Ton Chan with a Chedi enshrines Buddha images in niches, and other ruins.

East - Zone E

I have never met foreigners visiting Zone E, Although it can be easy by bicycle. Do not visit this Zone if you time is limited but if you have nothing better to do. There are many ruins of many temples here. Below is a short list.

Wat Trapang Thong Lang has a square beautifully stucco decorated Mondop, four rows of laterite columns, ruined Wiharn and Ubosot. Wat Chang Lom is surrounded by 36 ruined half elephants statues, and 19 niches with small Buddha images inside. Wat Chedi Sung has a very beautiful Chedi. Wat Ko Mai Daeng and Wat Hot Phayom are situated in the rice fields. Wat Sa Si is located on an island in the middle of Trapang Trakuan pond and has a large Wiharn with a Buddha image and nine Chedis of different sizes at the south. Other temples are Wat Mumlangka, Wat Chana Songkram and Wat Mai.

History of Sukhothai

Sukhothai was recognized by UNESCO as world cultural heritage. Established in 1238 as a Thai Kingdom, Sukhothai was prosperous city with self sufficient economy. During the Sukhothai period the "Sawankalok" glazed ceramic ware was produced in great quantities at hundreds of kilns in Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai and exported regularly to many countries.

Sukhothai adopted the Ceylonese (Sri Lanka) school of Teravada Buddhism (from Nakhon Si Thammarat, now in south Thailand) that manifested itself also in religious architecture like the bell shaped Chedi. Sukhothai style Buddha images are distinctive for their elegance and beauty, and the original "walking Buddha". By the end of the 14th century, Sukhothai had become one of the world's largest Buddhist centers.

The city continued to prosper until losing a power struggle in 1378 with the rising kingdom of Ayutthaya and became its tributary state. Autonomy was finally lost in 1438 when the last king abdicated and Sukhothai came under the rule of Ayutthaya. The city lay abandoned until 1782, the year when the Chakri dynasty came to power in Bangkok. Rama I gathered hundreds of Sukhothai statues and put them in temples in the new capital, Bangkok.

At the beginning, the Khmer Empire ruled the country. The population is mostly Khmer, Mon and other ethnic groups, including Thai. Many Thai people were living in the country, being immigrants or immigrants descendants, coming from the north. The Thai became strong, holding important positions in daily life. The Khmer Empire is weak. Its capital is far away. The year is 1238. Two local Thai princes, Khun Bang Klang and Khun Pa Muang, officials in the Khmer government in Sayam (later to be called Sukhothai) start a rebellion against the Khmer and succeeded. Khun Bang Klang is crowned King of Sukhothai under the title Sri Indradit (1238-1257). Khun Pa Muang, marriage with a Khmer princess, got a lesser position. The Kingdom of Sukhothai is established and grows rapidly by military conquest or peaceful annexations of other principalities formerly ruled by Khmer. Contrary to the Khmer reign, there is no slavery in Sukhothai. Capitalism flourish, and the Kings are not considered to be god kings as in the Khmer monarchy. Sukhothai is appealing place to live.

In 1253-4 the Mongolian ruler Kublai Khan, conquers the Nanchao Kingdom, in Yunnan, southern China, where many Thai people live. Waves of Thai migrants flooded Sukhothai from Yunnan. Sukhothai has a good relations with King Meng Rai, the king of the newly founded (1262) Lanna Thai Kingdom in North Thailand, Prince Ngam Muang of Phayao, and Chao Fa Rua of Pegu in Burma. In 1287 King Ramkhamhaeng formed an alliance with the two northern Thai princes, Meng Rai of Chiang Rai and Ngam Muang of Phayao.

After the death of King Si Sri Indradit, his son, Khun Ban Muang, became King (1257-1279), and his brother, Khun Ramkhamhaeng (1279-1317), ascended the throne in 1279. He reigned for 40 years and got the title King Ramkhamhaeng The Great. In the following years Ramkhamhaeng's armies conquer an area encompassing most of what is now Thailand, the eastern part of what is today Burma and almost the whole of the Malayan Peninsula. King Ramkhamhaeng made Sukhothai a powerful and extensive kingdom. King Ramkhamhaeng opened direct political relations with China, a fact that contributed a lot to the Chinese influence. His reign was the golden age period of the kingdom.

King Ramkhamhaeng made revision of the Khmer alphabets into a system suitable for the writing of Thai words. This Thai alphabet is still in use today. He also and revise and made new the laws. The Thai alphabet invented by him draws on Sanskrit and Pali (both languages of Indian origin) as well as the written languages of the Burmese and the Khmer, both of which are also Sanskrit and Pali based. But not only are the letters of neighboring languages used to provide for a written Thai language. King Ramkhamhaeng promoted religion and Buddhism became part of Thai culture. King Ramkhamhaeng and his successors were all devout Buddhist rulers.

King Loethai (1317-1345) ascended the throne in after the death of his father, king Ramkhamhaeng (There was a "forgotten" king named King Nguanamthom (1345-1347) that tourist guide books tend not to mention, So I'll do the same). Sukhothai begins its decline. In the following years many principalities ruled by King Ramkhamhaeng become independent from Sukhothai.

King Lithai Thammaraja I (1347-1370) ascended the throne in after the death of his father, King Loethai. King Lithai concentrates rather on religious than political matters (was called the patron of Buddhism), a fact further contributing to the loss of political power of Sukhothai.

King Sai Thammaraja II (1370-1399), ascended the throne after the death of his father, King Lithai. In 1371 King Boromaraja I of Ayutthaya invades Sukhothai territory and capturing several towns and in 1375 succeeded to capture Phitsanulok, the second capital of Sukhothai. In 1378 King Thammaraja II is forced to become a vassal of the King of Ayutthaya. This marks the end of the independent Thai Kingdom of Sukhothai after 140 years of existence. Under the last two kings, King Thammaraja III (1399-1419) and King Thammaraja IV (1419-1438) Sukhothai was a vassal state until it was annexed by Ayutthaya in 1438.

Kings of Sukhothai

Sri Indradit (1238-1257).

Khun Ban Muang (1257-1279).

Khun Ramkhamhaeng (1279-1317).

King Loethai (1317-1345).

King Nguanamthom (1345-1347).

King Lithai Thammaraja I (1347-1370).

King Thammaraja II (1370-1399).

King Thammaraja III (1399-1419).

King Thammaraja IV (1419-1438).

Hope you enjoy my slide show and my chapter.

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Granot

[cici]

Very interesting pictures! And the article on Sukhotai (I suppose from your “North Thailand Travel Guide “) is an exhaustive one. Your site is a “must see” for each one planning to visit Thailand. Your Dictionary and your Travel Guides are the proof of big knowledge and very professional work.