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Posted
You are all, with the greatest of respect, saying EXACTLY what I said at the very beginning (in your own ways).

You have to go back to an ORIGINAL of some description, be it RAW, PSD, TIFF, JPEG (or WAV) rather than open a previously edited and saved JPEG ...

With great respect,

I cannot totally agree. Just going back to the original often will not be of great help. If you really want to avoid any losses, you need the aspect of non-destructive editing, as well (see my post from above). But in practice this will not work, anyway. Assume that you made significant modifications in PS, you cannot go back to RAW. If you sharpen the image or apply Highlight/Shadow or other irreversible functions, you also will have losses, storing in PSD or TIFF will not help. You must live with the compromise.

Best regards,

Xaver

Munich

Posted

PETER

"What the original poster wanted to do was:

QUOTE (akphoto @ Jun 25 2008, 03:09 PM)

...exit to Photoshop from within PTE, do what he has to and then come back to PTE..."

you have to admit tho' the thread has certainly exposed a lot of opinions :)

ken

Posted

Ken,

That's exactly the point I made in post #25. This forum is a wonderful platform for stimulating debate and discussion and even, at times, heated argument. And there is likely to be at least one forum member who learns something new from each such discussion.

Posted

Lets be honest, you wouldn't do any editing of a Jpeg image created for a PTE show.

UNLESS - that editing was to put right the fact that you had forgotton to add the thin line around the edge of the image as you have with the rest, or forgotton to add your unsharp mask. This is where Ctrl+W is so valuable. All the main editing would be done well before the reduction in size for the show.

You would not, or should not make other changes such as levels, Hue and Saturation without going back to the original. (however, as FH says, you can get away with it when you know what your doing) but that statement sometimes confuses newer users of PTE, so it's probably best to always say go back to the original for most changes.

We are really lucky these days with the software we have to work with and I think that only those who did a fair amount of darkroom work will appreciate just how fortunate we are. We can now shoot in Raw and edit as a smart object. A smart object allows us to go back into camera Raw from the main body of Photoshop and update, or change the Raw settings we have already used. Talk about have your cake and eat it! It's just like live text and the Fx we have in layers.

We can add smart filters and can make changes or mask what we have produced and still go back into Camera Raw if we want to. The route to quality images has never been easier and I use Raw and manipulate as Smart objects all the time. You can make a layer copy of a smart object and rasterize just one of the layers. The other can be opened back up in Camera Raw to change your settings and then blended with the other layer.

Imaging that landscape where you can get a powerful sky at the expense of the forground, or a great forground at the expense of the sky. Use Raw smart objects and have both.

The command to turn on smart objects is in the hyperlink at the bottom centre of the Raw palette, a little tick box, small, but so important. Smart objects limit some of the editing we can do before rasterising (turning a smart object back to a std layer) and I suspect that in future versions of Photoshop more and more of our editing will be done in Camera Raw

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